Saturday, February 11, 2017

Any Excuse for Shiplap

Is there any DIYer out there who watches Fixer Upper who hasn't been dying to try out a shiplap project?

Of course I knew a house built in 1974 wouldn't just happen to have the perfect shiplap safely hidden away behind its walls, waiting for me to come looking for it. And I really had no idea where a good place for it would be in my house. But that didn't keep me from wanting to find a place... until I found the perfect project...

If you've read my previous posts, you'll see it went from a necessary kitchen tile re-do to expanding our laundry room to bringing this 1970s half bath into the 21st century.

Really? Who needs double medicine cabinets in a half bath?

Since we were doing tile, we could change the footprint of those rooms--which led to the expansion of the laundry room (see that blog post here). Because expanding the laundry room would require drywall and texture, why not overhaul the half bath? So here we are...


Removing the medicine cabinets, soffit, and the moldy drywall (from a leaking washing machine behind the wall) was the first step.

Wall paper and medicine cabinets gone! Whew!

Checking to see if we can get rid of this, move the light, and open up the space.

Figuring out what to do next...

Moving the Light

It was about this point in the project that I decided I needed to have shiplap on this wall. The nice thing was that meant we could remove the existing drywall (that made it even underneath since some was already missing). If all of the drywall had been there to begin with, we probably wouldn't have removed it. This also made it easier to move where the light would be.

Because we needed the light, my husband went ahead and installed the new fixture. Isn't it adorable? I love it. It kind of has a bit of a vintage feel to it. Anyway, installing it when we did ended up being kind of a pain with installing the shiplap and then staining/painting it. Oh well.

Drywall & Texture

When replacing the drywall and doing the texture in the laundry room, we also did the half bath. Because of the bulkhead that was removed, we needed to repair some of the drywall on the side walls.

Leaving a hidden note. Maybe someday someone will see it. :)

And because the walls had been smooth with wallpaper, we needed to texture the entire room (except where the shiplap would be.


The first thing we found out is that the product that Lowe's and Home Depot carry in our hometown doesn't look anything like what Joanna Gaines calls shiplap on Fixer Upper. What these stores call shiplap are basically just tongue and groove boards--which I like, so I was okay with it. I was a little afraid to just nail boards on the wall and call it shiplap, so absent any other ideas, I went with the tongue and groove.

Tip: Use a rubber mallet to tap the boards together so you don't dent the soft pine. As you can see from the picture, he started from the bottom and worked up.

Although I thought we would finish off the sides of the shiplap with some kind of trim piece, we ended up not doing that. I didn't mind the small gaps--it looks more rustic. One thing my husband had to be careful of though was measuring each piece every time because apparently the walls weren't square.

At the top, he added a trim piece on top--almost like a crown, though it was flat--to finish it off. Another full tongue in groove board wouldn't have fit, and couldn't have been tapped in anyways.

To Paint or to Stain?

The hardest part of the project for me was figuring out whether to paint or stain the shiplap--and what color.

I had to do something, of course, because with the sink right there, the wood would need protected from the water. I wasn't wanting to change the countertop and cabinet color as a cost-cutting measure, so I had to find something that was neither white nor ivory. I didn't want it to clash and I didn't want it to blend in.

I thought about staining the wood darker, but I was afraid it would be too dark, especially with the new tile. And I wanted to use a different mirror, which just so happened to have a fairly dark frame around it.

So I went with something I thought was cool, but will probably feel dated pretty quickly. I decided I could live with that. If I need to paint it later, I can always do that.

So I decided on a beachy, weathered look. To achieve this, I pulled all of the blue, green, gray, and white paint I had already around the house to see what I could come up with.

I brought in my inspiration piece (the egg candles) and the leftover pieces of shiplap to try out my dry-brush technique.

Then I made myself a little plan...

And then I went for it.

I felt like my first shot at it was a little too dark, so since then, I dry brushed a lighter shade over top (I think it might have been the wall color), and then I went over it with the sander.


What do you think?

From Cramped Utility to Utilizing a Mudroom

When we bought our house, there was so much that needed done. Although I didn't love the off-white tile in the kitchen, laundry, and half bath, I figured I could make it do. More than anything, it was a cost-saving measure, but time and effort was factored in as well. But then something happened to our kitchen floor that meant we had to do something... (see this blog post for that story).

So because we were now changing the kitchen tile, we realized it freed us up to change the footprint of the house. Projects that had occurred to us before and then were summarily dismissed because I didn't want to mess with the tile were now all of the sudden possibilities again.

The biggest was the utility room. It had a flaw--a big square of a closet butting into the mudroom space. While some may think getting rid of storage was a bad idea, this closet wasn't being used well anyway, and the better flow and more useful space had me excited.

This closet wasn't being well used from the hallway and took a quarter of the space from the utility room behind it.

Removing a closet would mean doing drywall (walls and ceiling), which also meant texture. And if we were already going to do drywall repair and texture, well, that meant I could do some updating on the half bath as well (see that blog post here). And that was how a "small" project of kitchen floor tile came to include so much more.

Removing the Closet

This part was easy. Clean out the clutter. Remove the door, shelves, and trim. Knock out some walls!

This gives you a better idea how much of the space it was taking up. (Sorry about the fuzziness.)

Removing Popcorn Texture

This really wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be. Just scraping it with the same taping knife my husband used for mudding worked great. But by the time I was done with two small rooms (the laundry and the half bath), I was glad I wasn't doing the whole house. (What's so bad about popcorn ceilings again? Now if it's glitter popcorn, well, I understand...)

Adding New Drywall

We did notice that the walls in the hallway were thicker than the walls between the kitchen and utility room (or maybe it was the other way around), so be sure to measure before you head to your home improvement store.

Because it was just the length of a door way, my husband didn't need to add any new studs. He just measured and cut to fit the existing opening and used drywall screws to attach the drywall to the studs from the door frame.

You can see the original door frame that will be in between two new sheets of drywall.

While he measured and cut as well as he could, he didn't worry about having it perfect, knowing that any little gaps would be covered by tape and mud in the next step.

Fuzzy, but you can see the ceiling repair.

Tape & Mud

Better known as floating the wall. This was the part I was most worried about, especially since there seemed to be a bit of a bow in the wall.

Tip: Always make sure the studs are level before attaching the drywall. If there's been settling or shifting, especially if there's been an warping of the wood due to water leaks, you might need to make some adjustments so that your drywall goes on flat and flush.

This was also the longest part of the project--or at least it seemed to be. It must have taken three-four days because after you apply the mud, you have to wait for it to dry completely, sand, and then float again with a larger swath and then repeat and repeat until you can't see the tape or where you begin or end on any of the seams. My husband did a great job on this though! And it was well worth the work and the wait.

Spray Texture

We rented a hopper and sprayed the new walls with texture. This is by far the best way to texture. Do not try the roll-on/paint on/aerosol texture. Those never match the rest of the house and scream DIY-fail.

Prime & Paint

Duh. Of course.


One of the things I really wanted in my new mudroom, besides the ability to walk through the room without running into a door or a corner, was a place to hang jackets and a place to tuck away shoes. If it had a bench, that would work well too.

My husband and I designed something to work for our space, and it's great! So much better than it was!